A2E Build

[cudarider1]

Ok, I am building the A2E that I picked up from Willywill. I cleaned the frame up and removed the top tube tire track sticker because there was a piece missing. I'm going to leave the A2E stickers for now even though they are wrinkled until I can get some replacemnts. I will get some pictures up soon.

I do have one question. I'm planning to use the XT cranks from my A2M so I removed the BBUN-72 bottom bracket from the M and put it in the E but the metal cup on the non drive side won't thread all the way in. The drive side metal cup has a 73 stamped on it which I assume means it fits a 73mm BB. And since it's too big I assume my new A2E has a 68mm BB. My question is should I just get a new BB or is there a spacer that fits between the frame and drive side metal cup to move the BB over to the right or can I get new cups to fit a the smaller BB cup. If I'm off on what I'm thinking let me know and if you know of a solution let me know.


Thanks

[Mark]

I'm no expert on bottom brackets, but I think you'll just have to get a smaller one. I've not heard of spacers for them.

[neo_pop_71]

Hey Cuda,

I'm not big on running out and buying new component if I have an existing part that'll do the job, but in this situation, Mark is correct and a new bottom bracket is best. There were a few companies like Sugino and Suntour that had a thin spacer for getting an exact fit but those BB were never intended for use in the dirt. They were mainly for track applications and some road use.

If the threads on your bottom bracket are not well and "seated" tightly on both sides of the BB shell, I guarantee that water will find it's way into your frame. Obviously, with a steel frame, that will kill your frame's integrity (especially where the chain stays and BB shell come together. My buddy (on the East Coast) had an older Specialized frame with the thin wall Ritchey Logic tubing, he was cleaning the frame after a ride and saw what he thought were paint bubbles on the inside of the chain stays just behind the BB. He scratched one of the bubbles and exposed a hole where water had eaten completely through the chain stay tubing. Knowing his frame was wasted, he started digging into both inner sides of the stays, and it's a miracle he didn't bust the frame and his neck! I say all this because when he sent me the close up pics, both sides of the BB cups were not snugged up on the shell. So, between the mud and water on the trail plus his hose down cleanings... that water found it's way into the low spot on the frame and did his frame in. I asked him to remove the BB and take some pictures. The Shimano BB had rust pitting, it was covered in rusty water residue, and the entire BB shell was rusted throughout. All that from a poorly fitted bottom bracket!

Sorry to be so long-winded, but for the cost of a new BB, it's so worth having a proper fit, plus the performance of a new BB is a big bonus (IMHO).

Good luck!

-D-

[cudarider1]

That's probably what i'll end up doing, I have been reading online that my un72 has the drive side cup wiht threads that can be switched for 68mm but if that doesn't work I'll spring for a new one.

Got a few parts in and began the build with what I had so far. heres a few pics.

Cane Creek S3 headset, Zokie from my A2M, Thompson stem, Race Face bars from A2M

[neo_pop_71]

Nice choice on the the Marz Bomber fork, not too sure why I don't see more retro builds using that fork, that is one of my all-time favorite forks. It has the retro vibe but lacks nothing in performance quality. I especially love the black lowers and the Marz logo brake bridge. That should be a nice light weight bike when you're done, nice job so far Cuda!!!

Are you going to run a front disc brake (v-brake rear) for performance or keep it more period correct?

Keep us posted...

[cudarider1]

You got it Neo, As you noticed I haven't kept it period specific, I'm going to run a 9 speed drivetrain with V brake rear and disc up front. I have a few more goodies on the way that I think you'll enjoy too

[willywill]

Looking Good! Sorry I could not be of more help with the derailleur bolt

[cudarider1]

Don't worry about it Will, I'll find one. Might as well ask here just in case, if anyone has the screw and metal clip that holds the cable on the derailler I'd be interested in it. Its a 9 speed xt derailer. I'll post more pics as I add parts.

[neo_pop_71]

Good mornin' Cuda,

That's an easy one for your LBS, go hit them up for that cable retainer screw, they should have a drawer/bin full of little crucial bits. If they're cool, it should be free. When my buddy owned his shop, he'd pull a new one off a derailleur that was still in the box, his parts rep or Shimano rep were always happy to spot replacement parts and keep Shimano's name a "happy" thing for the customer. Truly it should be no problem getting you one at your LBS, if it is, hit up another shop.

Good luck!

-D-

[cudarider1]

OK, it's still not done but moving along. I am still deciding to use my fully xt 3X8 set up from my deceased A2M or go with the 3x9 stuff that I'm putting on there now. As you can see I got wheels, shifters, der and a bunch of green ano goodies.