Don, I think I remember you talking about a 69er set up (26 in rear, 29 in front, I just learned about this creation) you had. What is riding that rig like? It makes sense logically, big wheel to roll over the leading edge easier, small wheel where you need torque and power, but does it handle worth a damn? I saw where MOOTS used to, maybe they still do, make a 69er bike. I figured if MOOTS made one it must be tits!
Now, the question, RAYMOND! What do you want to be?!?
Ooops sorry, forgot to take my meds today...
The question is, could it be done on a CUDA?? Just for fun, not for anything other than pure unadulterated fun?! I mean all you would have to do is slap a 29 in fork on the front right? Or would the big hoop come in contact with the down tube?
Bike CAD would help solve this problem. I keep meaning to download but I get so easily distracted...
69er Build
Re: 69er Build
I am prolly gonna do that with my A2R that donated a bunch of parts to the A2MS build. We talked about it somewhere around here....Don said it should work. I'll let him reply tho.
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Re: 69er Build
Good mornin' WillyWill,
Thanks for he interest in a 96'er/69'er build! I'm a huge fan of the build, it's replaced all my other bikes (aside from my Smor track bike-so simple) as my favorite by far. Sorry Cudheads, I know the truth hurts, but if I can find a high end steel Cuda frame, I'll build up a 96'er Cuda. Fair enough? You spot on with the roll over of the 29'er front and the hook up of the 26'er rear end. Zero "float" like a full 29'er is sometimes dinged about. I would not do it with an aluminum frame Cuda, I think the increased rake to head tube angle will stress crack the frame... c'mon now, not like an aluminum Cuda needs much help in the cracking department! I would also go with a frame that has shorter chainstays, it'll bring the wheelbase in and help the rear to track better. I have yet to find a negative aspect to the build, yes I'm biased but I have been looking for drawbacks and there don't appear to be any at this point.
Here is a link to the build thread that you're talking about (I think):
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=425&hilit=raskal
Attached is the most recent pic of my 96'er Frankenbike
-D-
p.s. If I ever find a 96'er/69'er MOOTS, I'm buying it! I think will they'll be the cult bike of the future.
Thanks for he interest in a 96'er/69'er build! I'm a huge fan of the build, it's replaced all my other bikes (aside from my Smor track bike-so simple) as my favorite by far. Sorry Cudheads, I know the truth hurts, but if I can find a high end steel Cuda frame, I'll build up a 96'er Cuda. Fair enough? You spot on with the roll over of the 29'er front and the hook up of the 26'er rear end. Zero "float" like a full 29'er is sometimes dinged about. I would not do it with an aluminum frame Cuda, I think the increased rake to head tube angle will stress crack the frame... c'mon now, not like an aluminum Cuda needs much help in the cracking department! I would also go with a frame that has shorter chainstays, it'll bring the wheelbase in and help the rear to track better. I have yet to find a negative aspect to the build, yes I'm biased but I have been looking for drawbacks and there don't appear to be any at this point.
Here is a link to the build thread that you're talking about (I think):
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=425&hilit=raskal
Attached is the most recent pic of my 96'er Frankenbike
-D-
p.s. If I ever find a 96'er/69'er MOOTS, I'm buying it! I think will they'll be the cult bike of the future.
Re: 69er Build
I would think having the larger wheel plus longer forks would do the same as having longer travel forks on the Cuda frame which is always said not the best thing to do...what am I missing ?
Relax and have deep water thoughts.
F.C.C.R Ride hard,Ride Fast.....Go Insane
F.C.C.R Ride hard,Ride Fast.....Go Insane
Re: 69er Build
vpc66 wrote:I would think having the larger wheel plus longer forks would do the same as having longer travel forks on the Cuda frame which is always said not the best thing to do...what am I missing ?
Ditto. Maybe the diameter of the wheel offsets the increased turning radius? Or maybe you just feel like such a stud that any and all handling issues are annihilated by testosterone! MUSCLE MILK!!!!!
Even when I was rocking the chopper front end (120mm Manitou Black) the handling was not that bad. Definitely not as nimble as it is with the 80mm Rock Shox Mag 21 but really not even a hinderance on the trails around Greensboro. I would think that on flat to rolling terrain it would not likely ever be much of an issue. The one time it was an issue was on a steep climb in Blacksburg, VA. The longer length from axle to top of crown essentially pushes you further back, a good thing for climbing...to a point. Once you cross that point it is not very hard to pedal the rig right out from underneath yourself (as I so deftly did... )
As you all know my thing is more road riding/racing than mountain biking/racing, though my heart is still with the mountain bike. Something about it I just like more than road bikes. A friend approached me last night at spin class (don't laugh, the yoga shorts and tank tops are more inspiring than a bunch of sweaty dudes) about racing the Cohutta 100. I am giving it some thought, though it is early in the sesason (April 27th I think) and I would rather do the Shenandoah 100 in September. I ride 6-8 road centuries a year but a mountain century...never. If I decide to take the bait I will need to make some changes to the Cuda. I am rebuilding the EFC right now and I am thinking that I am going to like it more than the Mag 21, mainly because it's adjustablility is fully functional. I would like to run discs again but that is out of the question on the front end, still a possibility on the rear. The area of greatest concern though is the wheels. The wheels on their now are nothing special, nothing wrong with them, but I would like to get a pretty light weight set if I am planning on tackling 100 miles in the mountains with 12,000+ feet of climbing. Seems like all nice lightweight wheels are disc only these days. What are yall's recommendations for either buying or building a set of race wheels? If I do go with the disc read I have a pretty nice Mavic 321 I built that I would likely use. Maybe going with a different shock and the 321's would be the best plan...
Obviously with my impending termination (which I jsut found out is not going to be until August AND I will get 2 months bonus if I stay on till then ) I am trying to do this on the cheap.
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Re: 69er Build
As I do not trust carbon, I would suggest building your own light weight (non-disc) wheels using titanium hubs. The Hope Ti hubs are usually found pretty easily, are lighter than carbon center hub, and are sort of a sleeper on Ebay. Here is a link to some active listings:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0 ... nium&rt=nc
I'm liking the front hub for $20.00, it would be an insanely light front wheel!
When I say these Hope Ti products are sleepers, check out this low price score:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Union-Titanium- ... 7675.l2557
Hope Ti center hub
Union Ti spokes
Matrix hard anodized ceramic rim
only $29.88 ! ! !
Custom built race ready wheel for cheaper than Shimano LX, damn!!!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0 ... nium&rt=nc
I'm liking the front hub for $20.00, it would be an insanely light front wheel!
When I say these Hope Ti products are sleepers, check out this low price score:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Union-Titanium- ... 7675.l2557
Hope Ti center hub
Union Ti spokes
Matrix hard anodized ceramic rim
only $29.88 ! ! !
Custom built race ready wheel for cheaper than Shimano LX, damn!!!
Re: 69er Build
neo_pop_71 wrote:As I do not trust carbon, I would suggest building your own light weight (non-disc) wheels using titanium hubs
I am ambitious, but not that ambitious! hahaha
I will look at those hubs later...stoopid internet filter.